We used to have a folding table and shelf combination on our kitchen unit. The folding table could be folded outwards and the shelves were originally intended for shoes. In the end, however, it was more of a dog and stuff shelf. We were a little unhappy with this and decided to change it.
A small folding table should be placed in the upper area to extend the work surface and a small shoe rack in the lower area.
You can find the instructions for the shoe hanger on this page: Shoe hanger
For this you need
Tools
- Wood saw
- Drill + Wood drill
- Brush
- Sandpaper
- Meter measure
Material
- Wooden board (optional; I used it for the back wall; mine is approx. 120x50cm)
- Table top (40x35cm)
- Support for table top (30x30cm)
- Hinges
- Small wooden parts (1x 2x8cm; 1x 2x15cm)
- Holding magnet for fastening while driving
& how to build the folding table
Step 1: Customize the back panel
- Saw
- Wooden board
First, I adapted the wooden board (back wall) to the curves and recesses. To do this, I kept stopping the board and working my way forward piece by piece.
Step 2: Saw the table top and small parts to size
- Saw
- Table top
- Small parts wood
Now I have sawn the table top and small parts to size. It will be 40 cm wide and 35 cm deep. That’s the maximum space available. I wouldn’t make the table top much bigger, otherwise it could become unstable.
I calculated the size of the small parts based on the support and the total space available (40 cm). See also step 3.
Step 3: Sawing the support to size
- Saw
- Wood for support
Now I have sawn the support. You can see the dimensions in the picture.
Step 4: Painting & sanding
- all wooden parts
- Wood color
- Sandpaper
After all the wooden parts were cut to size, I sanded everything down and painted it twice. Before each repainting, I sanded all the parts again.
Step 5: Attach small parts
- Small parts
- Hinges
- Screws
I have now attached the small parts to the top of the back wall. The back wall is attached to the kitchen block. The worktop protrudes slightly from the kitchen block, so I decided that the folding table would not be completely flush with the worktop, but slightly below it. It was important that the small parts with the hinges were positioned low enough so that the table top could still be folded down.
In addition, the longer small part lies in the recess of the support (if this is on the rear wall). It must therefore also be adapted to this.
I attached the small parts to the back wall with screws from behind.
I then attached a hinge to each small part.
Step 6: Fastening the back panel
- Back wall
- Screws
- Drilling machine/drill
I simply screwed the new back panel to the old back panel with 6 screws.
Step 7: Attach the support
- Support
- Hinge
- Screws
I attached the support with a piano hinge (we had some left over).
There are two positions to note. The longer small part must fit into the recess in the support so that the support can be folded up.
The support should also support the table top, of course. You should therefore pay attention to the height at which the support is attached.
Step 8: Fastening the table top
- Table top
- Screws
Now I attached the table top to the hinges, which are attached to the small parts on the other side (see step 5).
Step 9: Attach the holding magnet
- Holding magnet
- Screws
To prevent the tabletop from rattling when it is closed while driving, I attached a holding magnet.
